Calabria geographically forms the “toe” on the boot-shape of Italy. It’s almost completely surrounded by water, with the Ionian Sea to the south of it, the Strait of Messina separating it from Sicily, the Gulf of Taranto to the east, and the Tyrrhenian Sea to its west. Only the region of Basilicata to the north forms a land border with Calabria.
Nearly half of Calabria is mountainous, with most of the rest considered at least hilly, but there are amazing contrasts within. The Raganello Nature Reserve, Sila National Park and Aspromonte National Park attract hikers seeking mountains to climb, while the resort of Tropea and the Spiaggia di Grotticelle offers scenic views of the coast with crystal clear waters. Reggio Calabria is the largest city, home to theaters and world-class museums like the National Archaeological Museum of Magna Graecia (dedicated to ancient Greece) and often referred to as the “City of Bronzes,” for the ancient Greek sculptures displayed there.
The same mountains that attract tourists today have historically separated Calabria from the rest of Italy, both geographically and, to some extent, culturally as well. Today, standard Italian is spoken but the Calabrian varieties of Neapolitan and Sicilian languages are common too, and are collectively known as Calabrese. These dialects differ substantially even inside of the boundaries of Calabria itself.
La Cucina Povera (food of the poor, or peasant cooking) has brought out the best from commonly available ingredients, and Calabria is different from the rest of Italy when it comes to cooking as well: nowhere else in Italy will you find the level of love for chili peppers and spicy foods. ‘Nduja’ (pronounced en-DOO-ya), a fiery, salty spreadable fermented pork salume, is integral to Calabrian cuisine. It sports a tremendous amount of Calabrian chilies which asset themselves when spread on bread, dissolved into sauces and stews, or layered onto pizza. And best of all? Because it’s fermented, ‘nduja stays good for nearly forever.
The cipolle rosse di Tropea, or Tropen Onions, are grown along the coast and on the steep cliffs surrounding the towns of Tropea Zambrone, Briatico and Cape Vaticano. These onions are cigar-shaped and boast a unique aroma. But t’s their prized sweetness that sets them apart, and they’re often eaten raw with just a touch of olive oil.
And with all that coastline, it’s no wonder that seafood often graces the tables in Calabria. Swordfish, anchovies, sardines, tuna, squid, shellfish and more are popular for every day eating, along with “rosamarina,” or “sardella,” (the choice of which will depend on which coast you’re on) which doesn’t exactly translate but is called in English “Calabrian Caviar.” This blend of tiny sardines with chili peppers and fennel seed dates back to ancient times—it’s first mention dates back to the 1st century AD– and has been spread on bread or baked into pastries ever since. A little goes a long way!
The Calabrian approach to food is simple, but delicious. It can be summarized in an old Calabrian saying:
«E megliu nu pezze e pane cu cipuli a casa tua ca storzi a la casa e l’attri.» which roughly translates as,
“Better bread and onion in your own home than great feasts in the homes of others.”
